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Jacaylbaro

Scuba Diving in Berbera

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I headed to Berbera this past weekend (Thursday and Friday) and came back with as many seashells as I could squeeze into two hands, several new British phrases, a "proper" (farmer's) sunburn, slightly discolored Birkenstocks, and some "significant" time under the ocean (around 30

minutes).

 

Despite the fact that the locals had warned us about the winter conditions, we noticed the immediate increase in temperature as we neared the city. The rest of the weekend was quite windy, but still the temperature maintained its warm level to allow a refreshing plunge into the Gulf whenever we entered Beaches off the coast of Somaliland Beaches off the coast of Somaliland.

 

Although I needed to cover my shoulders and thighs (and probably more), I spent whatever time I had outside of diving or eating just relaxing on the beautiful, warm, isolated beach. What's more, the beach was almost completely free of

tourists thanks to the reputations of Al-Shabaab and the Somali pirates.

 

It was my second time to the coast; the first one lasted just a few short hours of hair free-flowing, gloriously warm water swimming and an evening of consuming fresh fish. Three large derelict ships haunted our backdrop.

 

There were a just a handful more tourists at the time (98 percent men), and I was either shown how to "swim" ("when the wave comes, just jump over it . . . like this.") or complimented. When I

asked why Somalian women didn't swim, I received this answer: "They aren't interested in the sea." (Riiiight . . .) Needless to say, It was with a heavy heart that I returned to my dear Hargeisa.

 

This time around, my main focus was on beginning my PADI (Professional Association of Diving Instructors) certification. It requires four

dives and some other theory, instruction, and technique training.

 

Overall, I have to say that it was one of the most incredible experiences I have had in a very long time. I enjoy the water, but admittedly I have never liked getting my face wet and diving off a board or boat terrifies me.

 

I will spare you the nitty gritty details, but I "kitted up" and jumped off a dingy boat with a friend and our instructor Steve (who, rumor has

it, left a successful career as a political journalist in the UK to swim with the fish and dolphins in the land of pirates). Hesitant to

lean back and collapse into the water, I was allowed to crash face down.

 

After numerous attempts to sink the required 10 feet or so to the bottom--I was practically hyperventilating trying to train myself to

breathe out of my mouthpiece and not my nose--I finally landed and was greeted with the most beautiful schools of fish and coral that bordered

my small sandy patch. Struck by the vibrant purples and golds, I smiled to myself as I noticed that so many of the schools shared a similar color scheme but sported various patterns. It was as if they had all

gone shopping at the same location and wanted to match in a photo I was mentally taking. (Forgive the cheesiness. I really have no idea how to properly describe the scene.)

 

All in all, it was a most delightful weekend and I am looking forward to heading back in the new year to spend more time under the sea.

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hodman   

JB are you "Steve" :D

This is very interesting. I only met a few cadaan ladies in Hargeisa and most looked like a fish out of water...no pun intended

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^ No they play Hargeisa Rules. ;) at the end of the match, always a fight breaks out. :D

 

Haye, adna ma Hargeysa ayaa joogtay?

 

JB,

Horta wali ma caagaddihi caanaha ayaa lagu dabaasha Berbera? mise dadkii waa bartay dabaalshii. smile.gif

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